Java Lava Palaver

 "With a population of 136 million it is the world's most populous island and one of the most densely populated regions in the world"

Wikipedia
 

I've landed in Singapore after just under a week in Java.  Wow, what a crazy island and a great travelling experience!  

Visiting Ijen crater, where local hard men carry 100kg loads of sulphur up out of a crater spewing poisonous gases and 3km down a trail to the road, is like nothing I've experienced before.  So was trying to catch a bus out of the local village. 

"Bus at 1pm, sir" - hotel reception

"Bus about 3pm" - local lads

"No buses after 1pm" - Lonely Planet Guide.  Bugger.

Luckily we were saved by Beni, a student in Yogyakarta returning there from his homeland of Malaku.  What a guy!  Not only did he help us with the lingo, but then organised a car to take us to Mt Bromo, accompanied us on the climb, then took us to his home in Yogya, put us up for a few days and showed us around the city.  Mia Sari you're a lucky girl!

But why does someone with a bike need to take buses anyway?  Well sadly because, as beautiful as Java is, the beauty lies at the top of big hills with terrible roads (think Stanage causeway to the top of Ben Nevis twice).  And in between the beauty spots are miles of congested roads where death defying scooters play chicken with hurtling trucks.  (It is after all the most populated island in the world!)  Fingers crossed for Singapore and Malaysia...

Oh and I almost forgot... go to Borobudur and Pramanan.  They're really rather good!

First Day on the Bike

"I want to know,

Have you ever seen the rain?

Coming down on a sunny day"

Creedence Clearwater Revival

The alarm went off at 5.30am and I woke to the sound of monsoon.  I'll usually accept any excuse to stay in bed but today I wanted to get things started.  I dozed for 30 minutes wich gave the rain enough time to die down.  I packed my last few things, said my goodbyes to Tom and Karen (thanks again for your wonderful hospitality) and hit the road.  I was lost within minutes!  Fortunately, Karen had suggested buying a compass the day before and between that and many stops to ask for directions I was soon on the main road north through the mountains.

The morning rain kept things cool and I giggled and chuckled my way through the first few hours with the sheer joy of being on my own on the road.  The sun came exactly as the hill kicked in and what had been a respectable pace dropped to a crawl.  I drank 5 litres in fewer hours but just as the giggles were about to be forgotten entirely the top appeared and all that was left was to race the cars and scooters down the other side.

I made Lovina with time for a swim, a massage on the beach and a shower before watching the sun set on another beautiful Bali day.

Bali

"A journey of a thousand miles starts with a single pedal"

Lao-tzu (China's most famous cyclist?)

I arrived in Bali almost exactly this time a week ago.  I was met at the airport by a driver called Tam Tam who had been kindly arranged by my hosts Tom and Karen (Tom was in my year at Bath uni).  The hour drive from the airport gave me my first taste of Indonesian roads.  On first appearances, it's a bit like Fight Club - the first rule?  There are no rules!  But after borrowing Tom and Karen's car for the day I got the hang of it - people joining a road at a junction have right of way (!) and if you think someone's not seen you horn them and if they have horn them anyway!  In fact the horn can be used to express all manner of things like I'm about to do a 3-point turn or my favourite colour is blue.  If in doubt, horn!

I spent most of the week with a beautiful Argentinian girl that I met at the airport.  We hired a car and driver and explored together.  We visited surf spots, temples, walked in the woods, hitched (when we got lost), swam in the sea, ate Sushi, lazed on the beach, listened to live music and generally had a bloody good time!  It was great to meet someone with such a passion for life and beautiful things.

As in Kuala Lumpur, I was consistently taken aback by people's friendliness.  Religion, or ceremony, is a massive part of life here.  

Small offerings are placed on the pavement and prayers are said several times a day.  This devotion seems to have given the people a real sense of duty towards each other.  Of course it's something that is common amongst friends in the West but it seems to include complete strangers here.  I have been told that when I travel further from the beaten track that I will find this even-more-so.

The bike has been released from its box and rebuilt so all being well I will begin the ride tomorrow.  My intention is to ride through Java, Sumatra, Malaysia, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia but first let's see what tomorrow brings... 

Kuala Lumpur

"Magnificent Islamic high-rises towering over multilane highways contrast starkly with the historic shophouses of Chinatown and British-colonial architecture"

Lonely Planet Guide to South East Asia

For me, Kuala Lumpur has been the perfect place to start this adventure.  Whilst the heat, humidity and mix of Malay, Chinese, Indians and Westerners make it feel very different from home, the widespread use of English and the overwhelming friendliness of the people I've met have made it very easy to adapt.  The guidebook attractions are worth visiting, the food lives up to its reputation but I wonder if I'll easily forget the cockroach and rat that joined me for what would otherwise have been my first meal alone?

A warm welcome

Selamat Datang

After 2 nights, 2 flights, 3 films, 1 book and a bloody good hot chocolate I finally arrived in Malaysia.  My first impressions confirmed what I had been told to expect - people here are friendly and good service is commonplace.  

After an hour to freshen up (it is as hot and humid as you'd imagine) I was met by Megan's friend Lizzy (left), her colleague Neal and his Spanish partner Lourdes.  Lizzy and Neal both work in the University's Psychology department in Kuala Lumpur researching the interactions between eye movements, visual memory and functioning of the visual system.  (Or at least I think that's what Neal explained to me but he did then ply me with copious amounts of alcohol so I could be way off the mark!)  

It was great to have a contact in the city, especially one that took me out and bought me dinner!  Thankyou.

Next stop Malaysia

"When the character of a man is not clear to you, look at his friends."

Japanese Proverb

The English summer is drawing to an end; kids are back to school and the teachers too.  It's been a great summer catching up with friends; what a lovely bunch of crazy cats you all are!  My next post will be from Malaysia, at the start of my adventures.  Have a superb Autumn and see you all soon :)