Perhentian Islands, Malaysia

"Paradise is exactly like where you are right now... only much, much better"

Laurie Anderson

Sorry Laurie, but on this occasion I may just have to disagree! 

I spent last week on Pulau Besar learning to dive.  I had only intended to stay three days but could easily have stayed three months.  Each day I would wake early to watch the sunrise, eat a breakfast of tropical fruit and pancakes, take a couple of dives (thanks Henrik) learning new skills and experiencing a fascinating new world of abundant and breathtaking beauty, while away an afternoon of reading, napping and chatting before sinking a few cold beers as the sun set over what is truly an island paradise.

Highlights of the diving included the luminscence we encountered during an atmospheric night dive, it's magical, conjuring a trail of sparkling light, the sharks and turtles we dived with and the sheer variety of weird and wonderful life.

Ok, so perhaps it could have been just a little better if it was Keira Knightley helping me put on my suncream (no offence Henrik)...  but really Laurie you need to get yourself to the Perhentian Islands.

Sumatra

"Jungle Trek, Jungle trek,
In Bukit Lawang,
See the monkey, see the bird,
See Orangutan!"

Local Guides (to the tune of Jingle Bells)

I had read mixed reports about visiting Bukit Lawang but I have to say I'm sold.  I took a two day trek into the jungle with local guide Eddie which proved to be a highlight of the trip so far.  We stopped regularly for Eddie to share his knowledge about the local flora and fauna in his inimitable and entertaining style.  Our first sighting of an Orangutan was magical and we were lucky enough to enjoy many more that day.  The Orangutans range from wild and cautious, through downright aggressive like the infamous Mina, to cuddly Jackie who had grown up with humans before being released into the wild.  Experiencing these incredible animals up close and personal, whilst still in their natural habitat, can only help raise awareness to their cause.

From Bukit Lawang to Samosir island on the crater lake of Danau Toba with three beautiful French girls.  We hired scooters, explored the island and visited the hot springs.  Great fun.  Merci mes amies!

On the following day, after the French girls had left for Padang, West Sumatra, I took a cooking class with local guru Haddy (Juwita cafe).  Together we cooked some Indonesian classics - chicken rendang, fish sambal, vegetable gado-gado and banana fritters.  Highly recommended indeed!

One Month In...

"Perhaps travel cannot prevent bigotry, but by demonstrating that all peoples cry, laugh, eat, worry and die, it can introduce the idea that if we try and understand each other, we may even become friends."

Maya Angelou

I can scarcely believe that it is only a month since I waved goodbye to my parents at Newport station.  What a month it has been! 

I've had all sorts of adventures - climbing into volcanoes, visiting temples, eating strange and exotic things, chatting to locals, chatting up foreigners.  I've biked, hiked, hitch-hiked, taken buses with chickens, taken taxis without, caught trains, planes and a ferry too.  

I've met Balinese, Javanese, Chinese, Malay, Indian, Nigerian, American, Argentinian, German, French and even someone from Birmingham!  In short it's already been a trip of a lifetime.  

But what still stands as the most striking thing is the sheer generosity and good spirit of the people here.  I have been welcomed into their homes, entertained, fed and watered.  Cycling yesterday when I was dying for a drink an old guy on a scooter pulled up beside me and gave me a cold can of coke.  He caught up with me sometime later and handed me a bag of sweet, juicy fruit.  And why?  Well, I guess, just out of pure generosity.  

We do all cry, laugh, eat, worry and die but what makes us human is the capacity to share these things, even with strangers.  And long may it last.

Next step Sumatra...

Singapore

"I know but one freedom and that is the freedom of the mind"

Antoine de Saint -Exupery

If you haven't been to Singapore you must go.  Tell me what you think.  

After the chaos of Indonesia, Singapore feels like the calm in the eye of the storm; a piece of the West relocated.  Here is a very modern city, with a fascinating past, that is superbly clean, efficient and architecturally striking.  Everything has been carefully thought out; not only does it work but it looks pretty too.  But there is a catch.  
Perhaps Singapore is best likened to the prize front room - yes it looks fantastic but pity help you if you spill your tea on the rug.  
Perhaps this judgement is too harsh.  Afterall, it's only natural for a society to need rules to keep it functioning at such an impressive level.  But, again, is all as it seems?  Censorship is a reality.  Academic friends talk of a lack of creativity, a suppression of critical thinking and free thought. 

I would love to have stayed longer, to have dug deeper.  I left with my (free) mind still undecided.  Either way, I would still rather walk down a Singapore back street at night than many Brtish streets by day...